Having dealt with a big wash, usually think about no less tedious process - ironing. In order not to waste time and not to make unnecessary movements, put all the things that need to be ironed on the table next to the ironing board. Put the ironed linen on the shelves and hang it in the closet only after it has completely cooled, otherwise you are threatened with re-ironing, because hot fabrics are very easily rumpled even from light touches. By the way, for the same reason, never iron the clothes just before leaving the house. The ironed thing should hang at least for half an hour on the hangers.
And now let's talk about the main hero of our ironing - the iron. Perhaps you still use the iron that your mother and grandmother stroked your diaper, and it suits you. Nevertheless, irons with a steam humidifier and many other advantages are very popular now. The only drawback of such an iron is the fact that it is necessary to pour distilled water into the steam humidifier (as stated in the instructions), otherwise the scale buildup in its channels will clog them. However, not every household has such water, but scum, which soils clothes, quickly appears from boiled iron. There is an easier way out: melt a little bit of ice or snow that forms on the walls of the freezer — this water will never scale and will certainly be cleared. If your iron already has scale, dissolve some vinegar or citric acid in water and pour liquid into the iron tank - a light acidic solution will clean the channels. After this procedure, rinse the tank with clean water.
Before you start ironing the product, be sure to check the label, which always indicates how to take care of the thing and whether it can be ironed at all (read about this correctly in Erase correctly). However, the fact that you are going to iron, no labels may not be. However, in order for things to be worn for a long time and not lose their appearance, it is important to iron them correctly, taking into account the peculiarities of the fabrics from which they are made. For this, there are general rules for ironing products from different types of fabrics and knitwear:
- Woolen and half-woolen things are ironed dry, but through a damp cloth at a temperature not higher. 180 ° C. You should not iron the same place until the fabric through which it is ironed is completely dry.
- Flax and cotton are difficult to iron. It is advisable not to overdry them. Linen is usually ironed slightly wet from the front. If it is dry, it is better to sprinkle it with hot water before ironing. Only places with embroidery, in order not to deprive it of relief, are stroked from the wrong side. In the same way you can iron clothes made of cotton or linen.
- Velvet ironing from the inside, without strong pressure, slightly moistening. It is desirable at the same time to put something soft. If velvet things are ironed on the front side, this should be done carefully, with a warm iron, preferably on weight. Stroking it with a stiff brush, hold it against the nap to raise it.
- Smooth knit knit through a damp cloth, without pressing, steaming slightly.
- Silk knitwear is better not to iron. It is enough to pull the product while it is still wet in the right directions in order to return it to the correct shape.
- Things from a boucle and embossed knit should not be ironed. If the knitwear is healed, it is not ironed, but gently steamed on the weight.
- Lace must be ironed wet, inside out, laying on a soft blanket. Relief edge is better to attach pins to a blanket.
- For viscose, only dry ironing is possible, otherwise stains will appear on the product.
- Natural and artificial silk fabrics iron necessarily from the inside and not very hot iron.
- Artificial silk can not be sprayed with water - stains will remain ...
- Velvet, suede and plush ironing is not recommended.
In addition to the rules listed here, you need to follow the banal rules for using an iron and know the sequence of operations when ironing:
- Before starting to iron, run the iron on a clean, dry cloth to make sure that the sole of the iron is clean and not overheated.
- Large items, such as sheets, must be folded in width in half, face up. Smoothing one side, flip the sheet over and flatten the other side.
- On small things, smooth the edges first, and only then the middle.
- Things with a fringe (tablecloths, towels) should be shaken before ironing so that the fringe can be straightened.
How to remove burns and other ironing defects
Sometimes during ironing, defects appear on the fabric: the markings of an overly hot iron and lasa are filled places from frequent and irregular ironing. You can save clothes from these troubles or at least try, and the helpful tips of an experienced ironer will help you with this:
- Gloss, which appeared on the suit from frequent ironing, can be removed under a stream of steam (from the tip of a boiling kettle) or wiped the covered spots with a cotton swab dipped in tea brewing.
- The burrs with flaxen items will disappear if you soak the items in water in half with sour milk at night.
- To remove tan, cotton things should be soaked in cold water for an hour and then wiped with a solution of 1 tsp of bleach in 1 glass of water and rinsed thoroughly.
- If there is an iron burn on the silk fabric, you need to quickly make a slurry of soda and water and wipe the stain with it. When dry, soda should be cleaned with a brush, and rinse the thing in cold water.
- An onion will help remove the stain of burns from any other fabric: wipe the stain with a half of the bulb and wash it with water and soap or detergent.
- Strongly scorched places slightly dampen with hydrogen peroxide and put the thing in the sun, and after a few minutes, rinse in cold water.
- The burrs can be removed by wetting them with lemon juice, and sprinkling them with powdered sugar on top. After some time, the powder must be rinsed with cold water.
- Damp your hands with cold water, sprinkle with salt and expose to the sun. After some time, salt shake off, and the cloth washes in water.